How To Replace An Octagon Window

While having the firm painted, the painters noted some rotten trim on the octagon window on the front of the firm. Since painters are painters and not necessarily carpenters, I asked them to paint around it, expecting I would repair and pigment the window myself.

I set bated one-half-day on a Saturday in November with the intention of replacing the trim. A few minutes into trim removal, I realized that the entirety of the lower portion of the window was rotten. Ugh. This is going to take more than some trim paint.

The kickoff matter I did was remove the rotten trim. Of grade, I broke the window glass in the procedure. Damn. This was done past cutting the caulking and prying the trim loose using a wonder bar.

In one case the trim was gone, I noted that the lesser of the window was likewise rotten. A previous owner had installed a slice of Plexiglass on the within of the window and sealed it in place using articulate silicone caulk. I suspect that wet built upward between the glass panels and slowly rotted out the wood.

I removed the rotten sections of window casing using a vibrating saw. Because this window is octagonal, the pieces interlock to a degree that pulling them using a hammer wasn't viable. Cutting them immune me to then pry them upward and remove them. Here's the window with all of the rotten wood removed. Note that I'm leaving the top iii pieces of casing in place.

This is nigh as far equally I needed to go with demolition. First step was to replace the lower casing. For this, I measured the width of the remaining casing. In this example, 6". I and so ripped a slice of #1 pine downwards to 6". Because this window is an octagon, each slice meets the side by side at a 135 degree angle. I cut 3 pieces of the 6" stock to 22.5 degrees and tested the fit. To my surprise, they were consistently 9 iii/4" long and all slid in place.

I used Gorilla Gum's polyurethane glue to glue the new pieces in place. To practice this, I moistened both sides of the joint and then practical a thin layer of the mucilage. Polyurethane mucilage uses moisture to cure and so that's why you wet the joints. I and then installed the new casing pieces and used shims to press the joints tightly together. I finished this by driving finishing nails through the casing into the framing.

To secure and seal the new glass, I added some door stop molding to the inside of the casing. I glued the molding to the casing using the polyurethane mucilage and secured it with brads. This volition give me a surface to push the drinking glass into, assuasive me to seal it. As with the casing and trim, these pieces were cut to 22.five-degree.

Well this cured, I cut the shims off using my vibrating saw and took on the task of making new trim. Given the manner of our dwelling house, a passive solar business firm from the early on fourscore's, I didn't want to practice anything fancy with the trim. Not fifty-fifty brick molding. So I used some more of that #1 pine stock and ripped information technology downward to 3". I then cut 8 pieces at 22.5 degrees.

To agree the trim pieces in place, I applied a chip of polyurethane mucilage and then used my brad nailer with xviii-gauge, i ane/four" brads. I shot the brads into the casing.

I let this all cure overnight, mostly because I ran out of daylight. The next morning, I fabricated rail and stiles from 3/4" #i pino. I ripped this downwardly to 3/4". I chose this measurement to give me some strength and to give me a thicker look to the panes. The stiles and runway were and so secured to another three/4" piece of pino and the whole thing secured to the casing with glue and brad nails.

I cut pieces of glass into the four diamond shapes and pressed them into the new stiles/rail, securing them with a small amount of DAP glazing. This glazing gives a bed to agree the drinking glass and seals out the conditions. I and then ripped some length of the 3/4"x3/iv" pino with a 45-caste chamfer and installed it on the outer side of the window pane to cease the outside of the window. Here's the effect, with a scrap of primer:

I finished the window past caulking all seams and openings so painted it brown to match the rest of the trim on the firm. I remember it looks pretty good.

This is how the window looks from the inside of the house.

Source: https://www.radare.net/2018/01/rebuilding-an-rotted-octagon-window

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